AUTHOR: JENNIFER KIRSCH

Touring California

A GUIDE TO SAN DIEGO

If there is a perfect place to hang your hat and you have the means, San Diego could be your first choice.  The year round climate is equable, not too hot like the nearby desert and not too cold in winter, where average temperatures simply require a light jacket or sweater.

There is little rain but enough to provide great natural vegetation, orchids and jacaranda trees that line the streets while bougainvillea and jasmine spill over walls and fences in abundance.  Looking out over the canyons to the bay feels much like a European vista.

The city is built randomly between those canyons and presses hard against the Pacific with its lovely beaches. The beach culture prevails as in most of southern California. Surfing, paddle boarding  and all kinds of yachting and boating make the harbors and jetties busy places.

A thriving world class cultural scene is alive and well supported by residents and visitors alike. I’d like to give you my ideas for a guide in this post should you decide to plan an adventure to this corner of the world in the coming year. You might also enjoy the video below with info and details on the city.

WHERE IT IS

San Diego is roughly  a two and a half hour drive south from Los Angeles or the same distance from Palm Springs going North East. The Temecula wineries are an hours drive north east and the border crossing to Baja California is only ten miles south. And of course the greater Mexican experience is accessible by a short flight or longer drive. San Diego has a world class international airport inside the city.  

For visitors there is a lot to do. Whatever your interest you will find many options for spending your vacation. It is hard to know where to start. A week would not even begin to cover everything; music, culture, museums, beaches and more.

THE BEACHES

Pacific and Mission Beaches  are the main playgrounds.  In Mission Bay, Sea World dominates the area where there are parks and recreational spaces.

Down on the boardwalk on Pacific Beach, you can rent bikes and take them onto the boardwalk, riding the cycle tracks alongside the coast. Cafes and small shops line the boardwalk and there you can buy all things “beachy” and eat fresh fish with a cold beer or just a coffee.

There is a casual hippy atmosphere and everything just feels retro. Roller blading and skate boarding are very much in evidence and there are companies that will teach you to surf and paddleboard if you are still a landlubber.

Parking is always an issue particularly at weekends but there are parking lots costing $10-15 dollars and you can stay all day. There are plenty of hotels and VRBO options for booking a stay. Trip Advisor has plenty of good info on this area as well.

Mission Beach has more restaurants  and eclectic shops with a very laid back Californian feel.  Here too you can buy some surfing, windsurfing or paddle boarding lessons and try your hand at behaving like a local. There is a small amusement park in Mission Bay with a lot of grassy space for picnics ,family gatherings and ball games.

LA JOLLA AREA

If relaxation is more to your taste head north to La Jolla. It is reputed to have the most expensive zip code in the USA; possibly second only to Manhattan.  La Jolla is chic with lovely restaurants and cafes. Try The Cottage at 7702 Fay Avenue-one of my favorites which I highly recommend.

They serve a delicious breakfast and lunch with or without a Mimosa or Bloody Mary. The Cottage is a block inland on the corner and is open until 3 pm.  The menu is huge, offering breakfast and lunch specials. Some, with a distinct Mexican flavor like Huevos Rancheros, for trying with a good salty Margarita.

The salads are amazing and the portions sizable which makes for great sharing opportunities. You can’t miss it with its white picket fence and outdoor dining patio. Their meals are well priced; an omelet  and coffee or American breakfast will set you back around $20. It gets very busy at lunchtime.

Go down Prospect, the main street  of La Jolla, while enjoying the shops enroute and find George’s at the Cove. Go upstairs to the bar overlooking the harbor and you will likely see the dolphin pods and the seals down in the bay. The view is extraordinary, stretching for miles along the California coast.. Their cocktails are more expensive but it is a great experience and you can linger with a drink and maybe an appetizer or two watching the ocean and the beautiful sunsets over the Pacific.

Photos: Courtesy of George’s at the Cove

AQUARIUM, ZOO & BOTANICAL GARDENS

Don’t forget to check out Birch Aquarium in Torrey Pines nearby which is fabulous. It has amazing credentials for its scientific research into endangered species and rare fish. It is worth knowing that endangered species are not only found in the big African game parks.

Torrey Pines is a state park suitable for hiking and has a golf course of some note. Torrey Pines Gliderport provides hang gliding and paragliding for the adventurous who want to see the bay from up above.

San Diego has a famous zoo again known for its work in preservation and conservation. It is modern and laid out over a large 100 acre area so the animals have room to stretch their legs. It is situated in Balboa Park and I could write a whole article on what you can find in this beautiful 1,200 acre park.

In addition to the zoo, there are natural vegetation zones, open space areas,  and walking paths, together with seventeen museums, cultural institutions and theaters. These include the Natural History Museum  and the Mingei Museum dedicated to the “art of the people” and featuring exhibitions from all over the world, both contemporary and historical.

The Timken Museum of Art is home to the famous Putnam Collection of European old masters featuring an early Rembrandt and a collection of Russian icons. There is also a permanently situated craft market with local artisans making beautiful ceramics, fine jewelry and glassware. Of course there are options for refreshments and some excellent cafes and restaurants. Try The Prado overlooking the Japanese Friendship Garden from the comfortable patio.

Admission to the museums and gardens is generally free and the museums are housed in ornate architectural styles; Spanish Colonial Revival, Mission Revival and Pueblo Revival – all a feast for the eyes. Balboa Park is worth several days of exploring for the whole family.

WHERE TO EAT

Food is a big deal in San Diego. The locals eat out a lot and are proud of their diverse tastes and offerings.  So close to Mexico, you will find some of the best Mexican restaurants.  Whether you want a gourmet experience or a hole in the wall café, your choices are many.  There are fabulous vegetarian and vegan options and plenty of Asian, curries and pastas provided by small family owned cafes and bistros.

For a wonderful meal overlooking the water right on the bay downtown, try Coasterra, a sophisticated modern Mexican restaurant which is not inexpensive but the food and the views are worth the treat.  I had tuna tartare that was probably the best I have had outside Hawaii; fresh with just the right amount of spice and sauce.

In the old part of the city there are two areas worth visiting, the Gaslamp Quarter and the Little Italy district. The Gaslamp Quarter is as its name implies, with  Victorian gaslights and architecture, while theaters and shops line the streets.  It dates back to around 1850 but was officially made a chartered quarter in 1982. There are artisan markets on Saturday and Sunday and many cocktail bars together with good eateries.

Little Italy is a pedestrian friendly area with so many authentic  places to eat, indie music venues and upscale boutiques. It has so many eateries it is hard to recommend one and there are great Italian deli’s serving tasty sandwiches while selling imported cheeses, wines and oils.

If you walk down the main street, pick any place and the authentic Mediterranean cuisine won’t disappoint. Try the market by Buon Appetito, Mona Lisa Italian Foods or Pappalecco. All do great takeaway sandwiches and delicious Italian breads and desserts. The Caprese sandwich on focaccia bread is to die for!

ETHNIC FOODS

North Park and South Park  are close together about a 15 minute drive from downtown. Both are trendy little residential areas  where a 1200 square foot twenties-style Spanish home will cost you over a million dollars.

However, you will find many inexpensive ethnic vegetarian and vegan restaurants-lots of Thai and Lebanese food. All are excellent and these cafes are punctuated by small vintage and retro boutiques, bars and eclectic shops selling unusual cosmetics and food items. The coffee and pastry cafes are out of this world and a good place to gather on a weekend morning before doing your shopping.

HOTEL DEL CORONADO

The Hotel Del Coronado is probably the most famous spot in San Diego. Coronado Island is home to the hotel of the same name, made famous as the location for Some Like it Hot, the now cult movie with Marylin Monroe, Jack Lemon and Tony Curtis.

A huge and expensive hotel, some rooms are $1,000 per night, and the register is littered with famous names. Michael Jackson rented the penthouse; a turret with a great view of the harbor. The hotel opened in 1888 as the brain child of two rich retired businessmen and catered to all the rich folk who wanted to get out of the bad weather in the east during winter. It would take 7 days to get across country by train but the Coronado had no shortage of patrons.

The property also boasts it’s own legendary ghost. Kate Morgan was an American woman born in 1864 and died in 1892 under mysterious circumstances at the property. Her room, located on the third floor, is said to have flickering lights, TV’s that turn off and on, strange scents and sounds, items moving on their own and unexplainable breezes from nowhere.

Today the hotel offers any amenity you can name and does great business with corporate conferences and weddings. If you go on the website you can often find deals for short stays which includes the beaches, restaurants, lovely shops and water sports. I highly recommend a visit to this property soon.

CONCLUSION

So San Diego is definitely a fabulous place to visit. It is less sprawling than Los Angeles and easier to negotiate for visitors. Most places are close by so a car is not even really necessary as parking downtown can be tricky. There is a good Uber and Lift presence and even some public transportation so book yourself an adventure and explore!

I think you can see why I love this city with everything there is to do within a short driving range. I hope you found it interesting and would plan a trip to visit or even consider making it your new home if you can afford it. Look for more posts as I travel around my second home in California. Until then…

Cheers,

Jenny

Jenny Kirsch is a British expat living in Palm Desert. She travels extensively when she returns each year to the UK and guest blogs about her experiences and tips. Follow her on Instagram.

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