AUTHOR: ARTSY CHOW ROAMER

Beginner’s guide:

exploring charlottesville, va

As you know from previous posts, I love the beautiful Southern college town of Charlottesville, Virginia where my paternal grandparents lived and my father graduated from college. There is something about living in an area that centers around higher education that excites me, especially when the campus is so full of perfect examples of historic architecture.

Home to two US Presidents, Thomas Jefferson and James Monroe, both routinely used the famous Three Notch’d Road to travel back and forth to Richmond on the business of the country. Located only 28 miles away to the Northeast was the city of Orange, the home of President James Madison.

Known colloquially as C’ville, Charlottesville was named after Queen Charlotte, wife of King George III, both of whom make for interesting reading on the part of the history buffs in your family. The city is the seat of government for the surrounding Albemarle County which is included in the population count of around 160,000 which makes it a great size and just one of the many reasons it is routinely named as one of the best places to live in the South.

Thomas Jefferson’s home, Monticello, draws millions of visitors a year for a look at where this controversial figure gathered his books, tended his garden and oversaw the running of a 5,000 acre plantation that grew tobacco and wheat.

WHERE TO STAY

For my money, the best place to stay from which to begin all this exploring has got to be the South Street Inn located on its namesake road at number 200. This wonderful little gem feels steeped in history as well with its antiques, big wrap around porch, rocking chairs and enchanting gardens with fireplaces, all reminiscent of my grandparents home.

Gracious stairs lead up to an entry foyer, living room and library where folks gather for morning breakfasts and afternoon wine and cheese. Not unusual to spot someone perusing book titles for a sit down to read. The host was super, spotting that my husband might have trouble with some stairs in the room we booked, he immediately moved us to another room closer to everything with less steps. Number Six with its fireplace might be the best room when booking yourself.

The front porch was excellent for people watching and enjoying morning coffee. Gentle breezes keep it cool on warm days and it offers tables for two and four to enjoy alfresco dining or afternoon wine if desired. The weather was glorious on our visit and we spent a lot of time out there planning and resting between walk-abouts.

Breakfast usually included several different kinds of homemade cakes, butters and jams with an assortment of fresh fruits, yogurts with toppings and cereals. Toasting breads were available with cheeses, peanut butter and avocado for spreads. Many choices in teas, coffees and juices rounded it all out. At an average of $200 per night I felt like this was excellent value especially for the great location.

downtown pedestrian mall

That location is just a couple of blocks walk to the pedestrian-only downtown mall which is my favorite haunt anytime I’m in town. As one of the largest of its kind in the country, tourists and residents alike flock to enjoy the best in restaurants, bars, shops and events in a truly thriving area of the city.

Anchored beneath large pin oak trees, you can enjoy outdoor dining and cocktails, live music, street theater and cinema year round. Specialty shops abound offering gifts, jewelry, housewares, clothing, arts and crafts, books and more. Many are local, artisanal and handmade instead of the usual expensive chain store products you might expect.

One of the shops I always spend the most time in is Caspari, located on the main drag of the mall. In business since 1945, the company has expanded a lot over time originally offering stylish design on paper products.

Working with the best companies in Europe, H. George Caspari had the eye that eventually led to table settings, housewares, furniture, accessories, clothing and gift items opening the first boutique in Paris in 2001 and the second location in Charlottesville in 2005.

Here is where I come to see some of the most creative styling in retail displays that show off the wonderful product lines they offer. I usually buy a bag to collect all the goodies purchased like napkins, placemats, stationary, journals, food items, gifts and scarves. I never leave the shop without a lot of treasures in hand.

LUNCH BREAK

After all that shopping, you are going to want to take a break with cocktails and maybe a small plate for lunch. I suggest a little place with charm called Petit Pois, a green bistro promising French technique with Virginia flavor. Start with one of the six or so signature drinks using their own recipes utilizing tart fruits like lemons and raspberries. Our favs were the Razzle Dazzle and the Gin Gordy. Not only are they delicious but they look so pretty too!

From there you can go light with a soup like lamb merguez with white beans and kale or asparagus salad with egg and paprika aioli. Next check out their chicken liver mousse or beef tartare with crostini and cornichon. Trout amandine with capers and green beans or coq au vin with potatoes and root vegetables are classics worth your attention if small plates aren’t your thing.

fine dinner dining

Finally, there are so many good places to consider for fine dining at dinner time that it is hard to talk about just one.  I have already reviewed C&O for you in a previous post which is a fantastic choice that most locals would tell you to visit. We went for the best of date nights and stayed into the late hours enjoying coffee, brandy and luscious desserts. Don’t miss it.

Another choice right off the mall would be The Alley Light. Half the fun is finding it when there is no signage that tells you you’re there. Just look for the decorative light fixture hanging above a nondescript door along with a couple of barrels filled with beautiful plants that seem out of place in a dead end alley.

We arrived early before the crowds started to come in and were shown to a table with big comfortable arm chairs at the window with a view. Daily specials were posted on the chalk board and menus offered up lots of good small plate choices.

We started with the bone marrow and escargot to spread on crostini that was perfectly crisped with a touch of fresh green and capers on the side. From there we went to a wonderful salad plate that had the perfect balance of bitter to peppery greens, blue cheese bits and crunchy walnuts.

Both of us opted for dessert with chocolate the common theme but I also wanted to try the raspberries with pistachio cream and short bread dusted with powdered sugar. Both were absolutely delicious and were the best of the evenings small plates tried. Grab a table for yourself one night at this great little spot.

walking the uva campus

We spent the better part of a day just walking the campus of UVA. I love to check out the Rotunda and sit on a blanket in the green spaces where students study and socialize. The rooms with a view of the inner courtyard are given to the top students with their small fireplaces and rocking chairs on the porch.

One of these is roped off in homage to the famous writer who stayed there, Edgar Allan Poe. Influenced by Charles Dickens, Poe’s stories of the gothic and macabre would become what he was most famous for in spite of dropping out of the college after only one year and dying under mysterious circumstances at age 40 on a park bench outside a hospital.

While the school had strict morality rules that included no alcohol, tobacco, gambling or firearms, they were mostly ignored by most students of the day even while Poe was in attendance. Gambling debts and a lack of funds from his supporting foster family added to the list of woes causing Poe to leave the school.

Other famous graduates include some recognizable names such as Katie Couric, Brit Hume, Tiny Fey, Paul Witt, George Allen and Samuel J. Goldwyn Junior. Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello home and the UVA campus were both placed on the list of UNESCO World Heritage sites in 1987. Make time to tour both of these historic places as you will find them both interesting and educational.

CONCLUSION

If you enjoy pedestrian only malls with choice offerings in shopping, dining and events, this lovely college town is worth more than a long weekend visit. One of the best times in my opinion is during the holidays when the festive decorations and snow possibilities get you in the right mood for finding the perfect gifts for folks on your long list while savoring the best in food

If you enjoyed what you read, you might also enjoy other posts under Edible Fare. There you will find restaurant reviews, recipes, foodie tips and best spots to eat in a variety of cities. I also put emphasis on food and art experiences in my travel posts under Explore the World. Until next time…

Cheers!

ArtsyChowRoamer

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