AUTHOR: ARTSY CHOW ROAMER

CHRISTMAS IN ITALY

VISITING OFF-SEASON

Europe is the number one destination for travel around the world and it is very crowded because of that. Having spent the holidays there before, I have found that time of year can not only be magical but easier to navigate during the off-season. Depending on your departure and return dates, the airports are easier, the planes less full and all lines much shorter.

When I got a text with some unbelievable last minute air deals for Italy, I snagged two for a holiday visit to Florence. Sure, we have been there before but not at Christmas and I knew it would be a lovely gift to ourselves, full of beautiful decorations, fabulous shopping and special sights. There is so much to see, eat and do in the cradle of the Renaissance that I would never be able to cover it all in one blog but I will try to give you some of my favorite things.

WHERE TO STAY

While there are any number of nice contemporary hotels, we prefer to look for smaller, well-located spots that offer that old traditional Florentine ambience. We chose the Corona d’Italia Hotel located in the historical city center of San Lorenzo. It is close to the Santa Maria Novella train station and right next to the San Lorenzo Market, one of the largest indoor/outdoor markets in Italy.

While it is only a three star property, we loved the Italian tile floors, warm wood stylings on the front desk and lobby bar and old-world color scheme in yellows, blues and maroon. The front desk staff were welcoming and upgraded us to a larger room without asking. The lobby bar was cozy and intimate, the perfect spot for an early evening martini before going on to dinner.

Our room was spacious with windows that opened to the street, a large comfortable bed, a place for morning coffee or breakfast if you wanted to bring it up from the buffet. The bathroom was well outfitted with toilet and bidet. A working desk and a large flat screen made it quite comfortable for the weeks stay. BTW, that breakfast buffet was luscious, offering everything you could ever want with a machine that put out every sort of coffee and tea drink known to man and was included in our room rate which was excellent value for Florence.

WALKING THE NEIGHBORHOOD

Another enjoyable aspect of where we stayed was how easy it was to walk around the neighborhood for holiday spirit with trees, lights, merry-go-rounds and nativity scenes. The outdoor stands in the market were full of wonderful gifts and souvenir items. Anything you might want to give was there for really excellent prices.

I did all of my shopping a little every day finding leather products like bracelets with silver catches and decoration in black, brown, gray and red with that Italian sophistication to the design. Perfect for my besties. The softest cashmere wraps that could be used as a scarf or shawl were stacked in stunning shades of yellow greens, pumpkins, golds and reds; fall colors that had me buying several for my mother and myself.

Nobody does paper products like this city and while you find shops with larger selections, there were plenty of journals, watercolors on paper, books, pencils and pens which worked well as gifts for my architect friend and his wife. Handbags, wallets money clips, beautiful blouses, sweaters and dresses were available everywhere. Rugs and luggage bags of all sizes were popular as well as Italian foods and candies.

I found some of the sweetest handmade wooden toys for toddlers along with little books like Pinocchio which is the perfect Italian story to read to the children on Christmas Eve. Stall after stall had jewelry of all types, styles and price points. Pretty necklaces, earrings and rings made for great stocking stuffers. I loved the Lorenzo market and hit it every single day I was there.

PIAZZA DEL DUOMO

Our first stop is always a walk about on the Piazza del Duomo. The cathedral of the Catholic Archdiocese in Florence was commissioned in 1296 and completed in 1436 with a dome designed by the famous Filippo Brunelleschi. Designed in the Gothic style with marble panels of various shades of green and pink, it is bordered by white and features an elaborate Gothic Revival facade designed by Emilio De Fabris. Put up with the line to see it if you’ve never been inside.

This area is full of galleries and shops for strolling, bars for drinking and restaurants for eating some of the best food in the city. One of our favorites for lunch is Il Bottegone with indoor and outdoor dining options. It’s beautiful in the evenings for people watching while staying toasty with all the festive decorations, heaters and blankets.

We opted to eat lunch inside as it was really cold so we ordered grappa with a cappuccino to warm up while the server brought a basket of fresh breads and butter for us to nosh on. Delish! Wanting not to spoil dinner we opted to share a platter special of fresh salmon slices with lemon, capers and dill served with olive oil, vinegar and toast points. This dish was simply sublime and hit the spot.

PALAZZO VECCHIO

Next up is always the Palazzo Vecchio which is about the fanciest town hall you will ever see. Here you will find a copy of Michelangelo’s famous statue of David along with other works of art including the gallery of statues in the adjacent Loggia dei Lanzi. While having been know by other names, it got its current name when the ruling Medici duke’s residence was moved across the Arno River to the Palazzo Pitti.

I like to sit and have lunch outside in this area to view the statues and watch the people come and go. It is one of my favorite shopping areas for three things in particular. Art galleries where you can find affordable small pieces of glass and paintings, a small perfume shop that makes their own very unusual scents with wonderful bottles and boxes and one of the best liquor stores in the area where you will find all manner of things including grappa in fancy Italian blown bottles with stretched necks and colorful beads.

LA MENAGERE

Last but not least, I never make a visit or recommendation that doesn’t include La Menagere. Shopping is at its best in this magical shop and restaurant offering beautiful glass pieces, flowers, books, household goods, kitchen goods and more. Many stop in for tea or lunch sitting in the retail space before or after their shopping is done. It is always beautifully done up this time of year and they offer many of their decor items for sale as well.

Their glass is offered in many different colors with special one-of-a-kind pieces. I bought some lovely espresso cups, saucers and spoons with gold rims that I will always treasure. Their florists were very busy putting together the most visually interesting compositions I have ever seen. We had lunch next to the patio in the glass dining room which was outstanding. Fried gnocchi with sweet potato puree and fried shallots were over the top delicious as was the potato tart with melted gruyere cheese. Both were served with a wonderful glass of the house Italian red wine. Light puffs of heaven with cream and chocolate were dessert along with an espresso and brandy. This is my favorite place in Florence. Don’t miss it.

EATING IN FLORENCE

You don’t really have to venture out to areas that are far away from the hotel where you are staying in order to find some of the best food around. A simple walk about will give you more places than you can try in a weeks stay or more. It won’t just be Italian eateries either. Some might be surprised to find out that one of the best meals we had in Florence was at an Indian restaurant just around the corner from us. Aroma of India was a cozy little spot with the friendliest of owners.

She seated us at a table and brought us a long menu to study while rushing over water and a little taste of what was to come from the chef. Delicious light crispy hollow balls filled with tasty fillings were a fabulous start. A little beer was the perfect wash down. Papaduums and garlic naan arrived next with delicious sauces from mild to spicy; mint, tamarind and chutney. Butter chicken and lamb vindaloo finished us off and were some of the best we have ever had.

Upon arriving in Florence, it was late and we popped out to the first sweet restaurant we came upon for bottles of lovely red wine, loads of fresh bread with the best peppery olive oil and basalmic vinegar at Osteria del Borgo. Since all their pastas are freshly made daily, we took the special and got pappardelle with a wonderful country slow cooked sauce with a thick chunky cut to the meat and veg. Beautiful….wish you were here kind of food!

Shout out to La Falterona for one of the best Italian meals we had just a couple of blocks walk to a lovely spot with a waiter who was utterly charming in an old school sort of way. Sliced duck with honey mustard glaze and mashed potatoes along with wild boar pasta were matched beautifully with his red wine suggestion that set us back a bit! Leave room for dessert please!

CONCLUSION

While many people might think Italy is only worth visiting during warm weather, we found that the tourist numbers are so high in-season that it almost begs the planning of your trip during the holidays. My husband and I love slow walks without dodging in and out of crowds. We like to be able to move around in shops without queuing up to pay. It is pleasant to walk into a restaurant or bar and be able to get a table without a reservation.

Add in the beauty of the decorations, the Christmas market stalls and the holiday spirit we found everywhere, it was just about perfect. Don’t be afraid to avoid the crowds when planning your visit. I highly recommend Christmas in Florence, Italy.

If you enjoyed what you read, you might enjoy other posts under Explore the World. There you will find my tips and guides on exciting places to visit with an emphasis on art and food as well. I also give you a taste of some fabulous spots under Snap Shot which will help you add to your bucket list. Until next time…

Cheers!

ArtsyChowRoamer

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