AUTHOR: ARTSY CHOW ROAMER

Beginners Guide

THINGS TO DO AROUND SAVANNAH, GA

I have visited so many lovely Southern cities especially during these pandemic years but few offer the shopping, gourmet food and fun of Savannah, Georgia. There you won’t just find the usual suspects of Southern favorite foods but contemporary riffs on them along with great art, haunted squares, exotic locations and quirky characters. Let’s get to this listicle post on things you should do when visiting.

We hadn’t visited in awhile but a recent reread of Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil made me decide that a road trip was in order. For those who don’t know, John Berendt’s non-fiction Southern Gothic best seller of 1994, followed the murder trial of gay Savannah antiques dealer, Jim Williams. Clint Eastwood adapted the book in 1997 for his famous movie of the same title.

• THE MERCER WILLIAMS HOUSE

Clint used the actual home of Jim Williams, known as the Mercer-Williams House, as a film location which is now owned by William’s sister, Dorothy Kingeary, who operates it as a museum. Located at 429 Bull Street, it fronts Monterey Square which is said to be haunted and is a block away from Forsythe Park .

The Mercer-Williams House was designed by New York architect John S. Norris for General Hugh W. Mercer, great-grandfather of celebrated songwriter Johnny Mercer. Construction began in 1860 and was subsequently interrupted by the Civil War. Williams purchased it for a two year renovation in 1969 for his own personal home and to display the lovely antiques he collected and adored.

You can take a tour of the historic home and stop in at the gift shop for some treasures to take back home with you. You will want to do a walk about or take a trolley car tour to see all the grand homes, the beautiful landscaping and stop to do some reading or journaling while sitting on benches under huge trees filled with Spanish moss. You will also find the house said to have headquartered Sherman after his famous march to the sea.

• FORSYTH PARK

Named after Georgia’s 33rd governor, Forsyth has a majestic 30 acres to offer its visitors. It is a very popular gathering spot for riding bikes, skating, walk abouts, picnics, dog walking and playing with two large playgrounds for children.

Housing a famous fountain said to be modeled after the Place de la Concorde in Paris, it was installed in 1858 and most think it is a one of a kind but it is not. It was ordered from a catalog and similar fountains are found in other locations around the world. It is no less beautiful by virtue of that and many selfies have been taken around it over the years.

• THE COLLINS QUARTER

Right about now you should be getting hungry and would like a good brunch with a Bloody Mary or Espresso Martini….amma right? The Collins Quarter will be the perfect stop off spot for you. They have two locations in the area-one on Drayton and one on Bull Street.

We stopped in at Bull Street so we could hang out on the outdoor patio with the blue umbrellas and people watch while soaking up the sunshine and enjoying some drinks. The food is fabulous and you can find the usual suspects like Biscuits and Gravy, Bubble N Squeak or Shrimp and Grits. But they have plenty of healthier options like Chicken Quinoa Salad, Coconut Chia Pudding or a Power Green Salad.

I had the Bananas Foster French Toast which was delicious and creamy with caramelized bananas, pecans, white chocolate mascarpone and maple syrup. My husband went with the classic Eggs Benedict. I can highly recommend the restaurant which is also a favorite with locals.

• OTHER RESTAURANT CHOICES

There are more restaurants than you have days to explore in and around this beautiful city offering a variety of foods from Southern to New American, Fusion to Ethnic and Barbeque to Seafood. Whatever you want you can find. We spent a long weekend and tried to get to as many as we could that were recommended for us to try.

The first night we decided to head over to Cotton & Rye for an early dinner where we snagged a great two-top indoors with a view by the window. They had a variety of good spots to dine either at the bar, indoors or on two different patio spots.

They bill themselves as a New American restaurant fusing modern techniques with more traditional ones like sausage making, bread baking and grinding their own meats. We tried their Mushroom Bourguignon and Pork Ragu after enjoying a signature cocktail with some in-house baked breads.

All were delicious. The big luscious mushroom tops were the perfect substitute for what is normally a meat dish. Rich brown gravy with earthy root vegetables was rich and creamy. The pasta was house made as well with large tender chunks of pork and a light tasty broth. No one would be disappointed with the meal but plating did leave a little something to be desired.

Another favorite hang out is the The Grey over on Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard where Chef Mashama Bailey is cooking up Southern foods and ingredients her way. You can dine a la carte at the bar or choose the four ($65 pp) or six ($85 pp) course meal with a seat in the dining room.

Located in a refurbished bus terminal, it gives off hipster casual vibes but with upscale dinner dining options. The evening we visited, we chose the four course meal which began with a Crab Coconut dish that was absolutely sublime.

Chef Bailey understands a thing or two about contrasts in flavor and texture as she demonstrated beautifully in this dish. Sweet coconut paired up nicely with the sweetness in the crab while peanuts added the crunch, lime the citrus shot and serrano chile the heat. Best dish of the evening by far for me.

The second was Shrimp Middlins in red sauce which was sweet, tangy and creamy and was one of my husbands favorites. The third course was a very simple chicken dish that was too simple for me so Chef sent out her Wreckfish from the other menu and I was a very happy camper indeed. One of the best pieces of fish I have had in a restaurant in quite awhile.

We finished up with the Brown Sugar Tart that was almost as delicious as the first course with sweet, tart crunchiness that should be in every dessert you ever eat. Don’t miss this restaurant but make your reservations early as it isn’t easy to get in!

A holla to The Olde Pink House for true Southern comfort food in the form of fried chicken, mac n cheese and collard greens. Eat that with their baked basket of breads and butters and don’t forget to start with a skillet of blackened oysters with watermelon relish and tomato chow chow. It doesn’t get any better!

I would also give a shout out to Common and Common Thread. We didn’t manage to get into either one but they were highly recommended by many locals and they both have excellent menus that we will try the next trip down. We also had drinks and apps in the upstairs bar at Husk which was lots of fun and delicious with their take on pimento cheese and crackers and Thai beef jerky. You can read more about our exploration of the food scene around Savannah here and here.

• OTHER THINGS TO DO

It may seem odd but I love to wander around old cemeteries and there is none prettier than The Bonaventure. With its huge old trees trailing Spanish moss and family plots with the stories of generations it is the perfect spot for touching photo opportunities and to sit and contemplate life.

And that is what you do-contemplate life because it continues on even as we all meet the same end with a resting place of some kind. This cemetery was also made famous by Berendt’s book cover due to the wonderful photograph Jack Leigh captured of The Bird Girl statue that used to be located on the Trosdale family plot.

The book and cover design made the statue such a tourist attraction that the Trosdale family asked for it to be moved in 2014 and it went to the Telfair Museum so if you are looking for it, that is where you will find it instead of in the cemetery that made it famous. Enjoy the tour video below.

You might also enjoy a little shopping while visiting the area. Everyone needs a fashionable straw hat to keep out the strong rays of the sun. Both men and women’s are sold in a lot of small shops as well as some beautiful scarves, ties, sweaters and shirts.

City Market is a great area for this kind of shopping which also offers some great bars and restaurants to visit. I enjoyed walking around the gallery with the paintings of recognizable spots around Savannah by artist Stephen Krane in his gallery located in this artsy area.

Facing Wright Square you will find a pretty glass gallery called Liquid Sands which is owned by Kym Miller. I met him while exploring the area and enjoyed seeing the lovely glass ornaments, hanging jellyfish, octopus and colorful sea glass sculptures.

He also has some lovely glass lamps with artistic design, small paintings of Savannah spots and beautiful jewelry pieces for the ladies. You will find something to treasure or some cute gifts to take back home. Don’t miss this spot on your tour of the city.

For the Southern gothics in your group you will want to spend some hours exploring The Olfactory Company who claim to be purveyors of fine continental soaps, teas and oddments. Dig through costumes, feathered boas, puppets, T-shirts and tarot cards as oddments is their real specialty and you never know what you might find!

• WHERE TO STAY

For those wanting a luxury experience I suggest you stay and explore Richard Kessler’s Riverside Plant District. Boasting jaw dropping views, bars, restaurants, shopping and three different hotel properties each with their own personality and unique aesthetic, there is something for everyone in this development.

The area is very walkable and offers one-of-a-kind shopping and art galleries. The Power Plant is a repurposed retreat by the water while Three Muses claims European elegance and the Atlantic is for the curious adventure seekers in your group. All offer top of the line luxury and they even welcome your furry friends-for a price that is.

For those who want a great location, less expense and a trip down retro memory lane, pick The Thunderbird Inn. We stayed there with our furry friend where a special playground was set up for a relief area. We parked right outside our room which had recently been redone and we felt like we were back in the fifties which brought back memories of my childhood vacations in Daytona Beach.

Music was playing on the property to support that mood, free popcorn in the lobby made for fun snacking in the afternoon while every morning brought free coffee and doughnuts from a local shop for breakfast. A trolley car tour company was right across the street too which came in handy most days.

CONCLUSION

Savannah is a lovely mysterious city with an impressive food scene, interesting local stories, beautiful cemeteries, great shopping and exotic landscaping. Ghost tours and haunted squares abound led by quirky characters who know their Southern gothic lore.

It is one of my favorite spots to stay, eat and hang on any given weekend. It should be on your bucket list if you’ve never been and it should be in your road trip plans again if you have because there is always new things to do as this friendly city continues to throw out the welcome mat with a beguiling “ya’ll come back now…hear?”

If you liked what you read, you might like other posts under Explore the World and Edible Fare. Hey, don’t be a stranger! Have you ever visited Savannah? Give me a holla and tell me what you love about it. Until next time…

Cheers,

ArtsyChowRoamer

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