AUTHOR: ARTSY CHOW ROAMER

Serena Pastificio

RESTAURANTS IN COLONY SQUARE

Recently we were looking for a new restaurant to celebrate a birthday and decided to go to Colony Square to check out their big public space redesign. We had a condo unit in Colony House for years and loved being able to walk across and access the large indoor spaces for food and services.

Developed by Tom Cousins, he was years before his time with the contemporary concrete buildings that were about as different as you could get from the architecture of Peachtree Street. But he bet on the fact that people would love the different….they would have to have the convenience….they would want the services provided in the huge covered public space he was building for tenants to rent.

You know; if you build it-they will come. At first they did not. It was just a big cold concrete box of a development that they just were not into. We were. We bought. We loved running across and dropping off dry cleaning, picking up a hostess gift and grabbing some dinner. All these years later Colony Square has become very popular and it was time for an update and refresh.

PUBLIC SPACES OPENED UP

They gave notice to most of the tenants in the public spaces and started the hard work of updating a development while the tenants in several different buildings still needed to work, live and play. It was quite the undertaking and having visited now I see they have done an exceptional job.

Even as a designer it was hard for me to find a point where I could recognize the original floor plan. Everything seemed to have been blown out and uncovered with the new tenants surrounding an outdoor courtyard that offers a bandstand for live music performances, lots of cool seating choices and outdoor seating for restaurants, food venues and shopping.

The evening we visited a band played favorites from the 80’s and 90’s. They were really good. Families with children were sitting in Adirondack chairs. Couples were lying on bright red sun chaises while sipping beers and drinks. Groups were chilling on the hanging beds and the tables with black and white umbrellas. People got up and danced.

SERENA PASTIFICIO

We watched all of this from our lovely outdoor dining table at Serena Pastificio. One of the new editions to the dining scene at Colony Square, this just might be the best Northern Italian restaurant in Atlanta replacing the long revered Pricci in Buckhead.

The interior design is fresh, modern and classy without feeling like you need a jacket and tie to dine there. It’s divided up into different styled smaller spaces making each feel cozy and intimate. All surround a large busy bar where people were already gathering for drinks and apps at 5.

A large group table had black dome light fixtures dropped over it providing contemporary style with atmosphere. A ceiling of delicate glass type ornaments added a little glitz and a small group dining room around the corner offered just the right spot for an intimate gathering away from busier areas.

ALFRESO DINING

We nabbed the last table outside that was covered with festive strings of lights, fans, plants and contemporary chairs and table settings. It was the perfect spot for people watching and snapping a few photos. Our server was friendly and knowledgeable and asked if it was our first time visiting.

We nodded and I added that it was the first time we had returned since they did all the work and it looked fabulous. He took us through the menu and rushed away to get our drinks. While we were settling in the band starting warming up on stage while people slowly filled the courtyard to enjoy a Friday evening with superb weather.

A couple strolled by holding hands with their dog in tow and a child squealed in delight when Dad showed up with goodies from the Food Court. It felt like a party was getting ready to start.

DRINKS AND APPETIZERS

We perused the wine list which I was happy to see was almost exclusively Italian priced from $11-27 a glass with three private label American branded bottles on offer as well. Signature and Classic cocktails like the Serena Sour and the Gattopardo sounded delicious and ran $12-15. My husband was enthusiastic over the beer offerings that ranged from $6 for an American Lager to $12 for a Reserve Blue from Belgium.

Our drinks arrived with a basket of focaccia and spreadables along with a wonderful silky olive oil for dipping which had a good peppery finish. We wanted to try a dish from almost every category so we went for a split of a Caesar Salad with fresh anchovies and the Crudo di Ricciola served using fresh yellowtail fish.

FIRST AND SECOND COURSES SHINE

Our server refilled our olive oil as he bought our first and second courses. The salad greens were tasty, crisp and fresh with the salt of a good parmesan and the underlying flavor of anchovies in the dressing. Two whole anchovies were added for decoration and extra flavor to the bowl. It was plenty to share and was delicious to finish the bread with.

The Crudo was next and was above and beyond our expectations. The dish was presented beautifully on sheer slices of cucumber with crunchy bits of apple, Meyer lemon with yuzu sauce and mint. The fish just melted in your mouth and we had to make ourselves eat slowly to savor it.

Our choices shined but we could have also tried the Polpettine, braised veal ricotta meatballs in tomato sauce or the Spanish octopus with smoked potato crema and tomato confit from the six options on offer. I would also suspect the Burrata would have made an excellent salad choice as well.

THIRD & FOURTH COURSES SOPHISTICATED

For a pasta course we settled on the Fondutelli al Tartufo. Pastificio apparently loosely translates to mean you make your own pasta. These were little baby ravioli squares of heaven filled with fontina and taleggio cheeses, served on braised leeks and a truffle cream sauce.

This was one of the most sophisticated and delicious pasta dishes I have ever had including while traveling in Italy. The comfort of the melting cheese and al dente pasta contrasted with the light crunch of braised and fried leeks added to the top and bottom surrounded by the lushness of the cream with a hint of the truffle was just sublime.

For our fourth course we tried the Brasato Piemontese; braised short ribs served with parmesan whipped potatoes, wild mushrooms and dark chocolate sauce. Are you getting that sense of sophistication again in the use of chocolate? Because I was and we were not disappointed with yet another dish from this chef.

The veal was fork tender with the saltiness of the potatoes. The slow braise made for a rich brown sauce that you could tell roasted vegetables had been added to for flavor along with the woodiness of the wild mushrooms and the light richness of chocolate.

There is a deft hand with flavors and textures that understands how to use contrasts when creating recipes and finishing plates in this kitchen.

BIRTHDAY DESSERT A HIT

If there is something chocolate on the menu that will usually be my husband’s choice. Since it was his birthday we decided on the Cioccolato Fondente. A chocolate mousse bomb floated on an almond cookie base with bourbon creme anglaise sauce and amarena cherries delivered everything you want in a sweet ending. Delicious taste delivered with a fresh modern approach using Italian flavors.

Top it off with a Lavazzo espresso served correctly in traditional style with a glass of Grappa and what’s not to love? They had three different choices on the grappa and several choices in desserts and coffees too.

CONCLUSION

I think you can tell just how special this restaurant is. They picked the right location in Colony Square and made it a nice contemporary atmosphere without making it stuffy. They deliver on honest Northern Italian food but a much more sophisticated approach. I can’t recommend it more highly especially for a fine Friday evening birthday celebration. Check out their lunch and brunch menus as well and give them a visit soon. Bellissimo!

If you enjoyed what you read you might also like other foodie news and reviews under Edible Fare on the blog. Enjoy the video above which will give you an idea of what the band was putting out. Look for my next post which will be a Snap Shot of a destination I think you should put on your bucket list. Until then…

Cheers,

ArtsyChowRoamer

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