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Montevideo, Uruguay
The charming pedestrian only streets of Ciudad Vieja in Montevideo, Uruguay
Author: ArtsyChowRoamer
Bringing you just a peek into destinations that should be on your bucket list. Not an in depth guide, just some luscious pics, tips and hacks to highlight why I love this place and you might too!
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Montevideo is known for its love of grilled meats, European charm and pedestrian only Old Town. With a population in the metropolitan area of around 2 million, it is the capital and the largest city in Uruguay. The southernmost city of the Americas, it is located on the Southern coast of the country.
It is a short boat ride from Buenos Aires, Argentina (a nice weekend trip while visiting Montevideo) with two different companies operating the ferries. One is offered 13 times a week and takes about two hours and 15 minutes while the other is offered several times a day but takes a little over four hours.
It is the home of tango, flamenco, and a place that spawned a well known tune that is an homage to the love of a mother. It consistently ranks as first in Latin & South America for quality of life since 2005. It sports three fabulous parks and is described as a vibrant, eclectic city with a rich cultural diversity and entrepreneurial spirit.
Landmarks include the Montevideo Metropolitan Cathedral, Teatro Solis, Palacio Salvo, Estevez Palace, Estadio Centenario and the World Trade Center Montevideo just to name a few.
Boasting an endless list of possibilities for things to do, places to see and great stuff to eat, this laid back under the radar city will have you dancing with the locals, enjoying historic architecture and eating your fill of every grilled meat imaginable. Are you ready for a quick Snap Shot?
Go
A detailed map of Montevideo to give you the general layout…
You can be forgiven if at first glance you thought Montevideo was right on the Atlantic ocean. It actually sits on the Rio de la Plata, a broad estuary that empties out into the South Atlantic.
When
Best time to visit Montevideo is during the Spring months of September to November
Montevideo is categorized as a humid subtropical climate. They are on opposite ends of the spectrum to us making fall and spring the best times to visit. December through March provides the hottest temps and can be characterized by hot humid days while Spring can often bring a lot of rain.
Snap
Written by Argentine-Uruguayan pianist, composer and poet Rosita Melo, the song Desde el Alma was inspired by a 14 year old girls homage to the love of a mother. It became famous after her husband, Victor Piuma Velez added lyrics and it became the perfect song for a Uruguayan tango.
See
The Old Town Gate into Ciudad Vieja; a pedestrian only barrio in Montevideo Photo: Slightly Astray
Cuidad Vieja is located in the oldest section of Montevideo. It is one of the most popular tourist attractions as the wide car free streets provide easy access to all the shops, restaurants and bars. It is made up of about 8 blocks in one direction and 14 in the other.
There are street vendors and musicians providing a lively atmosphere and experience. This area is a favorite to both stay and live with it’s quiet small town feeling and European architecture that reminds me of Buenos Aires and areas of Paris or Prague.
The video above will give you a good idea of how a walkabout in Montevideo looks and feels. There are cute coffee shops to jump in for a sweet lift or a short break. You can always smell meats grilling as Uruguayans love their firepits even more than Americans love their gas grills!
After the Argentina financial crisis and mad cow scares of the early 2000’s the city is coming back in a slow but sure way making the locals happy that tourism is good and people actually want to visit and live in Ciudad Vieja again.
Don’t get me wrong there are still signs of the devastation with abandoned and locked up buildings. Some need lots of love and attention but they are slowly getting things turned around and restored.
The Teatro Solis is the oldest theater in Uruguay having been built in 1856. It underwent an extensive renovation in 2004 with some columns being designed by the famous Phillipe Starck. It is quite beautiful and offers guided tours and open houses for photo ops.
A full range of artistic performances are there from recitals to symphony, dance, theater and comedy. Tickets are quite affordable especially in comparison to what you pay in the States. Don’t leave this historic building off your must see list.
Renovation in 2004 brought Teatro Solis up to date offering a variety of shows Photo: Slightly Astray
Eat
As pointed out earlier, grilled meats are sort of an obsession in Montevideo. You can get many other cultural foodie experiences but the meat reigns supreme. No surprise then that Trip Advisor gives a top pick nod to Uruguay Natural Parilla Gourmet restaurant for 2020.
Outside entrance to the Uruguay Natural Parilla Gourmet a Trip Advisor top restaurant for 2020
Opened in 2013, they are proud to be the first meat restaurant to be certified by the National Meat Institute for the fact of having continuous year round grassland fed cattle creating a healthier animal with 3 times more Omega 3 and Vitamin E making for a healthier meat experience for the customer.
The menu is extensive with everything from sweetbreads to tenderloin and steaks. It is apparent they are utilizing as much of the animal as possible in this menu. If beef isn’t your thing you can also pick from a selection of lamb, chicken, seafood or sausage dishes prepared in a variety of ways.
In the event you simply don’t want meat there are offerings of an Italian nature such as salads, risotto and pasta dishes to give you a break. The wine list is quite good and worth adding a bottle to your meal.
Chef Mario Moti of La Fonda runs a friendly kitchen and restaurant with a homey coziness that feels like eating with family. The restaurant has been certified by the Uruguayan Agricultural Network because of their ecological farm to table approach to their dishes bringing the freshest seasonal organic ingredients to the customer.
Chef at work in the kitchen of La Fonda in Montevideo
Chef’s menu is divided into three categories; specialty cafe, a business man’s lunch, or gourmet dining. Roughly this equates to pricing per person of anywhere from $U 80 to 420 a person. This is good eating for very affordable prices.
Composed plates are full of contrast and color with the veggies and sauces. The Cafe offers a nice selection of teas and coffees and the outdoor patio is the best spot for people watching.
You know how I like a little out of the way spot with good contemporary design and Bruta has it all. It just feels fresh and different the minute you hit the doors; the kind of place that will lure you in off the streets for a conversation, good food, a snappy playlist and a good bottle of wine.
You can order a lot of things as tasting plates like pumpkin and coconut soup, ham croquettes or grilled fish with lemon. The mix of beef to ham to seafood is well curated on this thoughtful menu. You can also say cover and get an entree size of any tapa.
They leave it totally up to you because they want you to come back and they know once you taste what they are offering and experience their ambiance you will.
Last but not least head on over to the Mercada del Puerto for lunch; an urban renewal project that really works in old restored 1868 building. Over 14 different stalls offer barbeque, grilled meats, sausages and hams cooked over large pit fires with seating at lunch style counters and sit down restaurants.
Stay
Located in the neighborhood of Pocitos is the Soro Montevideo from the Curio Collection by Hilton. This little gem is a coastal retreat steps away from the famous Rambla; a walking avenue which stretches around the entire coastline of the Rio de la Plata for twenty two glorious miles.
Soro from the Curio Collection of Hilton is a lovely contemporary hotel in a great location
The architecture and decoration are contemporary with urban flair while palm trees and tropical breezes make for a relaxing setting. The rooms provide a minimalist atmosphere but offer luxury in the amenities, bedding and coffee/tea service.
Tomas restaurant offers breakfast, lunch and dinner with a changing menu that is well crafted by the chefs with only the freshest ingredients. If you need to get a little work done there is a 24-hour business center where copying and meeting space is made available for your use.
After a walkabout and some beach time you can get your work out done in the gym with a pretty sweet set up and finish it off with a good soak in the roof top jacuzzi. This property has a lot to offer any visitor to the city at a more than fair price.
Work out anyone? The gym at Soro Hotel in Montevideo
Rather check out shopping in the area? Try the Villa Biarritz Market on Tuesdays and Saturdays where hundreds of vendors ply their wares to locals and tourists alike. Everything from artisan goods, clothing and jewelry to souvenirs are available. Pricing runs the gamut from fairly cheap to more expensive and custom.
If you really appreciate the arts and crafts of a culture then you might want to try the Mercado de los Artesanos. Basically it is an association of artists and craftsmen that show in various galleries and spaces in and around the Montevideo area. You will find true treasures in these art galleries to take home.
Guides
Sundays seem to be the best time for a visit to Parque Rodo which has gone through a variety of changes in it’s 125 year history including a couple of name changes. Named for the surrounding barrio neighborhood where it is located it offers a lot of things to enjoy.
There is usually a flea market with clothing and the like going on, music around or even on the lake and the biggest collection of monuments anywhere in the city. It is an expansive park which comes alive at night for entertaining the young people.
Park rides and games are fun and nostalgic while a local Farmer’s Market offers affordable organic produce including fruits, veggies and cheeses. La Melaza is an all ladies open air drumming core. Catch them on San Salvador in the early evening.
A SIDE TRIP BY BUS TO PUNTA DEL ESTE
Another under the radar destination in Uruguay is the coastal beach town of Punte del Este. Celebrities and other tourists are choosing it for the vast expanse of beach, beautiful views and quiet privacy it offers.
An easy inexpensive two hour bus ride will get you there for a weekend or more from Montevideo. I think it is a must do so plan accordingly. Why?
It has a great cultural vibe with lots of museums and art galleries. Luxurious boutique hotels abound while a vibrant nightlife entertains with a great selection of gourmet restaurants serving up world class food. You know me, eating is a fun sport.
Beautiful beach view of Punta del Este in Uruguay
Montevideo is divided into 62 different barrios or wards; each with it’s own Mayor elected by the residents. Each barrio has it’s own geographic location, identity and cultural activities.
The flag of Uruguay at Punta del Este
Known for tango and flamenco, most know the first and work on learning the second. Visitors are eager to learn as well. You will find lots of places that offer tango lessons or an evening of flamenco accompanied by some serious guitar picking. Check out the video below for how it’s done by the locals and enjoy the beautiful moonset over the water.
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