Eating the Ottolenghi Way
Chicory boats with feta, walnut and pomegranate seeds Photos: Courtesy of Ottolenghi
AUTHOR: ARTSY CHOW ROAMER
EATING
THE OTTOLENGHI WAY
A James Beard award-winning chef, writer and restaurateur, Yotam Ottolenghi has indeed become an adjective as BBC’s Katty Kay recently observed in her interview with him. Having radically changed the way Londoners cook and eat, Ottolenghi is known for his bold, unusual flavor profiles developed by admission for “drama in the mouth” centered around vegetables.
Not a vegetarian himself, Ottolenghi felt vegetarians would appreciate cooking and eating fresh vegetables that simply celebrated them instead of putting them second to the meat dishes they could be served beside. On top of that concept, he develops recipes that people would want to cook at home, and he shares them with everyone on his beautiful website.
Ottolenghi at his home in Camden in London Photo: Courtesy The Gloss Magazine
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Yotam was born in Jerusalem to Michael and Ruth Ottolenghi, a chemistry professor and high school principal. Of Italian German descent, Ottolenghi is the Italianized version of Ettlingen and Yotam spent many a summer in Italy during his childhood. Conscripted into the IDF in 1989, he served three years in intelligence headquarters.
In 1997, he studied and completed both a bachelor’s and master’s degree at the Tel Aviv University in comparative literature; his thesis was on the philosophy of the photographic image which would sort of hint at the artistic approach he would be bringing to his brand, food and plates. He moved to Amsterdam, where he worked in editing and relocated to London to study French pastry cooking at Le Cordon Bleu.
Chef, writer and restaurateur Yotam Ottolenghi shares his thoughts
While in London, he would meet his partner, Karl Allen. They married in 2012 and have two sons born from gestational surrogacy in 2013 and 2015. They reside in a lovely home in Camden with a big dining table and a beautiful garden where monthly dinner parties are a coveted invitation and food is casually presented as ready from the kitchen, delivered with love on artful tableware that support Karl and Yotam’s contemporary aesthetic.
The perfect party bite that offers eating without plates or silverware
ABOUT THE BOOKs
The book cover designs speak volumes about the brand, recipes and food. Twelve in total to date, the titles are straight forward, one word catch phrases: Ottolenghi, comfort, simple, flavour, Jerusalem, Falastin, plenty and more. Each cover provides BIG pops of bold color, graphics and font styles that support the underlying title; the simplicity of a lemon or the layers of flavor suggested in an onion.
Each book has a carefully tested and crafted set of recipes that must pass the test of the title. Is it simple? Will people want to cook it at home? Are the recipes true to Jerusalem with the spices of home such as Sumac and Za’atar; the simple chickpea celebrated and eaten so many different ways. Are these the recipes that will be handed down in the family being made for dinner, celebrations and holidays? These are just some of the questions Yotam asks himself as he develops a recipe that will be offered as a dish for you and yours.
the RESTAURANTS, Cafes & Delis
The Ottolenghi way of eating began with the first deli shop located in Knotting Hill aong Ledbury Road over twenty years ago. There, the lovely Luana holds court having run it for fifteen of those years. She knows all her regulars, their families and their tastes. She helps you decide what to eat right there as well as what to take away for later from the daily changing menu. The white facade and interior lets the red name and the colorful food do all the talking.
You’ll find that red is a theme that works its way through all thirteen locations that Yotam and his business partner, Sami Tamimi, have now opened. From the graphics on the walls of Richmond to the umbrellas on the patio of Bicester Village or the draperies in Spitalfields, the use continually feels fresh, on trend and classic at the same time providing the expectation of drama that the food always delivers.
Each location provides a certain kind of specialty that feels different from place to place but consistent in types of dishes, quality, service and ingredients. Full service restaurants like Nopi, Rovi, Spitalfields and the newest Ottolenghi in Geneva specialize in global flavors, cooking over fire, bold flavours with fermentation and buzzing cocktail bars respectively. Four cafe locations offer cozy neighborhood spots for sharing plates of seasonal dishes, veggies, salads and bakes. The delis are for stocking up the pantry and noshing on pastries.
DRINKS & FINGER FOODS
Did I mention the great website? Go to the recipes section and click on browse all. I spent days looking at it so I could figure out which cookbook I wanted to start with. Hint: Jerusalem is his favorite and most likely will be mine as well. All the recipes are simple and written in clever straight speak for easy follow even if you don’t happen to be a chef.
I like that there are drink recipes like pineapple martinis with sage or sumac. Never heard of sumac? Me either but it had me at “dried berries and tart lemony flavor that is a favorite in Middle Eastern and North African cooking.” Pro tip: you can probably find it at specialty shops, Whole Foods or farmers markets.
Recipes are divided up in a variety of ways to help you get what you want in the quickest way. Finger foods and canapes for instance will give you ideas for your next get together. Yotam is partial to party apps that serve fifteen or more with hand held vessels for easy serving and clean up. Try the chicory boats with lovely feta and walnut dip above-delicious perfection.
Shakshuka is a wonderful one pan dish that must include eggs
LUNCH brunch & DINNER FAVORITES
Because there is such a range of specialties amongst the restaurants and cookbooks, you’ll find easy weeknight dishes that also work for lunch or brunch. I tried the egg and feta frittata with a fresh sprinkle of torn dill. Thirty minutes from kitchen to table with a side salad of greens using the recipe for coconut green goddess dressing and you’ve got a simple but delicious meal. I also put together a quick shakshuka with eggs for another quick option for brunch; the spicy gochujang is my new best friend in cooking.
The deli’s specialize in cakes, salads and dishes like this baked feta cheese and dill fritata
There are a huge number of entree salad plates that are sharable which Ottolenghi is best known for-calling all vegetarians! Late spring early summer, we’ll see a bumper crop of luscious tomatoes and I look for options like his warm salad with shallots, thyme, oregano and burrata. His veggie niciose more than pleases with potatoes, eggs, green beans and olives-both delicious and filling.
Whatcha cooking for brunch, lunch or dinner? This dish for sure!
Want to spend a little more time in the kitchen on a fancier dish for your next dinner party? Go for the sticky lamb bao buns with pickled chilis, ready made bao, marmelade glaze and green veggie toppings. Trust me, this dish will wow your guests and they will think you spent days instead of hours on it. Yotam’s take on a roast chicken dish from a belove cookbook called The Silver Palate will always be my go-to Chastain Park take along. Pair it with some couscous and raisins for an exotic delicious dinner.
Cravable sticky lamb with bao buns and all the fixings is a luxury dinner
SWEET TOOTH
For those of us with a sweet tooth, chef gives you great ideas that are lighter and healthier but still decadent. I tried his mousse with fresh cream and crunchy spring toppings. Everyone can use a little dark chocolate in their life right? Pair ripe fresh peaches with a simple sabayon, crushed raspberries and mint or lime leaves to perfectly finish a spicy dinner in a special way.
Individual chocolate mousse with a variety of crunchy spring toppings
SHOP
The shop has a lot of wonderful things for you, your pantry and gifts. They do ship to the United States and the first things I suggest you try are the cookbook, spice and flavor bomb sets. There are a lot to choose from and the spices come in individual jar choices as well. Look through a section found at the bottom of the website called Foodipedia.
There you will find the pantry items Ottolenghi uses the most to create his signature style and it is funny and educational. It will help you decide what kind of purchases you would like to make or stock up on from the local grocery. Tableware and linens are also available in contemporay colors and styling.
Chef discusses his food philosophies with Colbert
CONCLUSION
I think these are very well done, beautiful cookbooks that you will treasure. Stock up and get busy as the delicious recipes with the fabulous pantry suggestions will have you eating and cooking “the Ottolenghi way” too, joining the rest of us fanatics who bow at the altar of this creative chef.
If you enjoyed what you read, you might also like other posts under Edible Fare and Artful Ideal. Look for my upcoming post in Explore the World on a new destination spot in Blue Ridge, GA. Until then…
Cheers,
Artsy Chow Roamer
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