Expat turned Desert Rat in Palm Desert
The desert with palm trees sitting at the base of the mountain with snow…Photo: Toll Brothers
AUTHOR: JENNIFER KIRSCH
Palm Desert
EXPAT TURNED DESERT RAT
This is, as we all acknowledge, the strangest of times. We are all confined to the barracks where we were billeted when this terrible virus hit us and changed our habits and way of life, probably forever.
For an obsessive traveler like myself, an expat living in America for 22 years, my annual sortie back home to Europe was a given. A trip that always encompassed work, pleasure and the enjoyment of old friends and new places.
So in February 2020 with all trips and exploration firmly cancelled I decided to look at the place where I found myself “locked down”. I have discovered that not only is it a nice place to retire but it’s got a lot to offer visitors who might like to take a road trip. You ready?
THE COACHELLA VALLEY
The Valley is a huge tourist and retirement community about 100 miles east of Los Angeles on the 10 freeway en route to Arizona and beyond. Folk enjoy unlimited golf on some of the best courses in the US, play tennis and polo at the local Polo Club. Spas are everywhere along with lots of fine restaurants and bars.
A winter playground for folks from all over the world particularly those from Canada, Alaska and North Eastern New York. For those who don’t enjoy the cold of winter, the season starts around Thanksgiving and continues through April when the desert heat drives away all but the hardy locals.
The Snowbirds descend on the desert cities for sport and R&R. With temperatures in the winter that average 65/85 it is the perfect place to run to from Buffalo, New York and all parts of the frozen north.
Some of the best golfing is in Coachella Valley Photo: Courtesy Indian Wells Golf Resort
There are nine Coachella Valley cities straddling the freeway 100 miles equidistant from Los Angeles to the west and San Diego to the South West. So the Pacific Ocean and a coastal vacation is well within reach via the freeway.
PALM SPRINGS
Palm Springs, the most westerly city, is home to a large wind farm with some 2,300 wind turbines. The valley residents resented the turbines when installed at first during the eighties but gradually their productivity has made them a landmark only 20 minutes outside the city. For the curious there are windmill tours offered everyday to see these iconic welcome symbols at work.
The nine cities of the Coachella Valley running up the 10 Map: Courtesy Jelmberg Real Estate
Palm Springs’ claim to fame is “Mid Century Modernism”; currently a popular fashion and decor option named by several well known architects from the 50’s. Its simplicity and original clean lines together with its local historical origin has spawned “Modernism Week” in March when local people open their beautifully designed homes to the general public.
There are vintage shops, reproduction furniture stores all following the same theme. There are lectures and films for visitors to enjoy giving the design some context. Palm Springs and the other desert cities were home to the Rat Pack in the fifties and many celebrities made their second homes here in the valley to get away from the hustle and bustle of L.A. life. This is still true today.
The Palm Springs Aerial Tramway is just before you enter Palm Springs on the 111 highway, here you can experience the tallest cable car in the US travelling up the mountain from the desert basin into a different ecosystem where even in the summer there is often snow at the top.
The views are amazing and you can eat, drink or enjoy the great outdoors with a hike through the alpine trees and snow. The tramway is the largest rotating tramway in the world. It opened in 1963 and was built as a way to get from the Coachella Valley floor to the top of the San Jacinto mountain peak.
The car climbs from approximately 2,500 feet to a height of 8,500 feet, nearly one and a half miles into the sky! The newly installed cable cars rotate slowly in order to give every passenger a 360-degree view of the magnificent Chino Valley. The trip costs about $25 and is a great day out. At the top there is food and drink and some 50 miles of hiking trails.
Palm Springs hosts the annual Palm Springs Art Fair attracting galleries from all over the world as diverse as Santiago, Sydney, London and Madrid. There is a great art museum in town, many shops and cafes as well as some world class restaurants. And don’t forget the farmer’s markets and the lively Thursday night artisan street market with live music and local vendors.
If country music is your thing try a drive out to Pappy and Harriet’s about 40 miles into the desert, worth the drive for great music, country food and overnight accommodation. Check out the Purple Room, the original Sinatra bar and club; very authentic and like going back in time.
CATHEDRAL CITY
Cathedral City is the next city along the freeway going east; a drive through city for the most part with many car dealerships and residential communities. There is a fifties cinema named after Mary Pickford whose tower dominates the landscape as there are no high rise buildings in the desert apart from the Casinos.
These are built on Native American land and not governed by city ordinances which restrict the height of buildings. Also regulated is the number of street lights and neon signs. This reduces light pollution in order to preserve the desert tranquility and the big open skies.
Artists rendering of Aqua Caliente Cathedral City Casino opening in early 2021
RANCHO MIRAGE
Rancho Mirage is nestled between Cathedral City and Palm Desert; an affluent neighborhood it is home to such roads as Bob Hope Drive and Frank Sinatra Drive with Dinah Shore and Gerald Ford getting their glory too.
This was the home of the Rat Pack in the 50’s and the area is littered with memories of Sinatra, Martin, Bishop, Lawford and Davis. The music in the local bars is typical of the bars and clubs of that era.
There are many good restaurants; Shame on the Moon, The Ritz Carlton and Blue Ember to name a few. Sunnylands, the former Annenberg Estate is worth a visit on Bob Hope Drive. It was built in the 60’s and has hosted many presidents and presidential retreats. Ronald and Nancy Reagan spent a lot of time there and Barack Obama has hosted several different leaders. The gardens and coffee house are open every day but the house has special opening times several times a year and it is best to go online to check days and times.
The beautiful mid century modern architecture of Sunnylands completed in 1966 Photo: Sunnylands
PALM DESERT
Palm Desert is the central valley city with the big shopping mall including high street names. One block south is the famous street, El Paseo, dubbed the Rodeo Drive of the desert; full of high end stores, boutiques and around 14 art and sculpture galleries. El Paseo is host to fashion week in March when many international designers come to show their collections.
The Living Desert is a must, particularly for families with small children. The Zoo works to educate as well as entertain and specializes in desert wildlife. There you can see giraffes and camels and those species enjoying a desert climate. The Zoo is involved in many conservation and preservation projects and most live within their natural habitat. The gardens are very nice as well. It is situated just half a mile up Portola Avenue in the heart of Palm Desert.
Many species can be seen in their desert environments and you can feed the giraffes Photo: Courtesy The Living Desert Zoo & Gardens
During the season McCallum Theater attracts the best of the old Rat Pack music as well as world class stars like Celine Dion, Neil Diamond and Pink Martini. There are three Native American casinos within 5 miles-all with excellent entertainment. As the desert is only a one hour flight or five-hour drive from Las Vegas we benefit from the fallout of the mega bookings in Nevada.
Music and shows are lots of fun at McCallum Theater in Palm Desert Photo: McCallum Theater
Friday is the day and 3pm is the time for the vintage cars to cruise down El Paseo. Many residents and visitors in the area collect cars from the 50’s and 60’s and beautiful examples are on full display. Many visitors gather on the sidewalk to admire them before enjoying the local happy hour.
There are some pretty famous golf tournaments that take place that include international golf stars, Tiger Woods, Rory MclLroy and many more. Some championships are played for charity and the golf stars mingle with guests and players usually hosted by one of the luxury hotels in the area.
INDIAN WELLS
Indian Wells between Palm Desert and Indio is known for the Indian Wells Tennis Club which hosts the annual world famous tennis championships punctuating the start of the spring tennis season. With 29 courts and a 16,000 capacity it has attracted the best players; Serena Williams, Andy Murray and Roger Federer are regulars.
Tickets are pricey but there are late afternoon deals to be had and many locals volunteer just to get close to world class tennis and its players. The best local restaurant is the Cliff House where you can eat early more cheaply at 5.30.
If you want to rub shoulders with the tennis and golf pros you need to sign up for dinner after 6.30pm. An excellent place to have a drink or dinner to discuss the day’s play is Vicki’s of Santa Fe a New Mexico themed piano bar with nightly live music during the season.
LA QUINTA
La Quinta is next in line, home of the PGA, many beautiful resorts and spas. The Old Town is full of quaint Spanish architecture and interesting shops and wine bars. The excellent restaurant here in old town is called Lavender Bistro. Be sure to book ahead but if looking for a a more economical choice try Stuft Pizza’with a 12 -page menu and great drink options.
INDIO & COACHELLA
Indio and Coachella are last on the list. On the right as you drive through on Highway 111 is Shields Date Farm with the best brunch in town served in their unusual outdoor restaurant. It is a quirky place with a a gift shop and as many different dates as you can imagine.
It was founded in 1923 when the date harvesting business was in its infancy. The current buildings and date farm were opened to visitors in 1953 and still retain their historic ambiance. Check out the 1950’s film Romance and Sex Life of a Date.
In fact, 90 per cent of dates eaten in the US come from California. Different types of dates are available for tasting and you cannot leave without trying their famous date shake. It will last you all day and for about a week in terms of dessert calories!
In April the Coachella Music Festival brings in the younger crowd and many of the world’s most famous rock bands and groups play for a weekend at the end of April. In 2019 Coachella attracted 99,000 daily attendance during it’s six days of music.
In September Stagecoach with its more country theme provides music for 85,000 slightly older fans and every two years the valley hosts Desert Trip which during its first inaugural weekend in 2018 featured Paul McCartney, Neil Young, Bob Dylan, Roger Waters from Pink Floyd. and the Rolling Stones. It attracted many top restaurants.
A short drive into the desert north of Indio is the Coachella Valley Preserve. Established in the 20’s it was the oasis that founded development in the area. Famous for short hikes one of the most famous stories is that in the 20s Rudolph Valentino was filming there when one of the lights caught some palm trees on fire damaging the beauty of the Oasis. Thankfully they recovered nicely.
LOCAL TRIPS
Desert Hot Springs is a 25 minute drive north the other side of the 10 freeway and it’s famous for its natural hot springs. The spas are situated all over town and come in every price range and level of sophistication. For a real treat try Two Bunch Palms, the country hideaway for Al Capone.
Two Bunch Palms hot springs spa…the old hangout of Al Capone
The spa area downstairs was where he and his friends entertained the ladies and his huge safe is still parked in the entrance. The restaurant is excellent both healthful and organic. This resort is the first to be carbon neutral and is solar powered.
The valley has proximity to some wonderful wineries in nearby Temecula; a lovely drive over the mountains towards the south. You can taste great wines, buy your favorite vintages and eat a superb lunch outside among the vineyards. You could almost think you were in France or Italy!
CONCLUSION
So that’s the Desert Cities that have become my adopted hometown of choice. I think you can see why with everything there is to do within a short driving range. I hope you found it interesting and would plan a trip to visit or even consider making it your new home. Come and see us (when the virus will let you) you are bound to return home relaxed and rejuvenated! Until then…
Cheers,
Jenny
Jenny Kirsch is a British expat living in Palm Desert. She travels extensively when she returns each year to the UK and guest blogs about her experiences and tips. Follow her on Instagram.
You might be interested in reading other posts by ArtsyChowRoamer under Explore the World. Follow me on You Tube, Facebook, Pinterest, Instagram & Twitter
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